Fruit trees should be pruned annually in order to control the size and shape of the trees. Trees properly pruned usually live longer and produce more fruit. By training the tree each year, the growth can be guided to secure branches at the right location up, down and around the main tree trunk. The principle involved is to secure branches where they are needed in order to get the best distribution of strength and fruiting wood. By selecting and establishing the scaffold branches when the trees are small, fewer large cuts are required later.

The cultivation, spraying and harvesting jobs are made easier when the trees are pruned well. Pruning results in larger fruits and better fruit colors as a result of more light distribution. All of the cuts made in the pruning operation should be flush with and parallel to the branch structure. Close cuts will heal more quickly. Do not cut back the tip end of the branches promiscuously. All cuts should be made at growth renewal points so the tree can continue to grow in a normal manner. The removal of all dead or dying wood each year is important. A sturdy pair of lopping shears and a pruning saw are the tools needed for most pruning jobs. A pair of hand shears is needed for some of the pruning jobs of grapes and the bramble fruits.

January, February and early March are usually the best months for pruning fruit plants. Avoid pruning during extremely cold weather as trees are likely to be injured. Treat all wounds in excess of 1 inch in diameter with a suitable tree wound dressing.

 

Pruning Apples

Train apples to a modified leader with the lower scaffold branch selected from 20 to 30 inches above the ground and continue selecting other branches (eight to ten) at about 8-inch intervals spirally around the tree. Three to five years are usually required to select the scaffold branches. Apple trees trained in this manner form strong, sturdy branches that are capable of supporting a heavy fruit load. The branches that are to form the skeleton structure should, if possible, form right angles to the central leader. Sharp angles tend to cause the branches to split away from the tree.

Trees that have been trained in this manner can be maintained by a little judicious pruning each year. Apple trees tend to grow bushy, and thick areas occur in the tops and northeast side (due to the south wind). Cutting out some of this growth is the annual pruning job.

The lower scaffold branch, especially when it is located on the south side of the tree, tends to grow fast if left unpruned; it will soon unbalance the tree as a result of its rapid growth by shading out desirable branch development along the central leader.

Some apple varieties tend to grow upright with the scaffold branches crowding the central leader. Inside cuts to force the growth to the outside growing points are helpful in maintaining better tree shape.

Don't over prune. Vegetative type growths and water sprouts can be the result of too much pruning. Spur type and dwarf apple trees require less pruning than standard trees.

Multiple variety trees such as (five in one) should be pruned carefully in order to maintain each variety. The top branch variety tends to grow at a faster rate and must be contained.

Pruning Pears

Pear trees tend to grow upright. They should be pruned lightly each year. Make the cuts inside to divert the growth to the outside growing points. A central leader should be selected to form the structure of the tree. Avoid too much pruning because succulent growth results in more susceptibility to the fire blight disease. A little pruning each year will keep the pear tree from being over vigorous. When apple or pear tree branches affected with the fire blight disease are being pruned, disinfect the shears between cuts with a chlorine solution.

 

Pruning Peaches

Peach trees grow very rapidly. Therefore, pruning is a job not to be overlooked from the time the tree is set. About a third of the growth can be removed each year if good growing conditions prevail.

The peach tree should be cut back to 18 or 20 inches above the ground at planting time. Branches lower than 12 inches should be removed and the others cut back to two buds. During the growing season summer pruning can often be practiced to help guide new growth.

Each year branches are thickened to shaped the tree to a modified leader or open center type.

The open center is the most popular system of pruning peaches in Oklahoma. Select three or four scaffold branches that form wide angles to the trunk, located from 12 to 24 inches above the ground and distributed well around the trunk. The short, sturdy scaffold branches make the peach tree strong enough to hold up its fruit load and withstand most of the windstorms. Lateral branches are allowed to grow, forming the producing area of the tree. These branches should be cut back to a side branch in reducing the top to the desired size. By this method the tree is kept open in the center, down in height and the extended branches are cut back allowing the tree to get no bigger than desired.

The modified leader system is secured by selected four or five scaffold branches as the tree grows over an area from 12 to 48 inches above the ground, spaced from 6 to 8 inches apart and located around the central leader. Peach trees trained to a central leader are pruned much like apple trees. The side branches develop around the laterals to form the producing area. Scaffold branches must be shortened annually to control the tree size, or they soon will become long, limber and break under stress.

Many times in years when fruit fails to set the trees grow rapidly, making the pruning more difficult the next year. It is best to prune peaches in February or March as danger from severe freezes are over, and too, the condition of the fruit buds can be determined.

In years when fruit fails to set, severe pruning in early spring will encourage formation of new lateral properly located. This type of pruning is needed when trees have been let go too long. Removing the top of the tree is a bit drastic, but it will revive many old unproductive peach tree.

Pruning Plums and Cherries

Plums and cherries require less pruning than other kinds of fruit. The scaffold branch structure of plum trees is is established in about the same way as peaches. About all the pruning required is the annual removal of branches that are tangled, crossed or that are interfering with each other. A few cuts now and then will keep the tree developing well. The large number of growing points on the plum and cherry trees keep the tree from growing too fast. Unlike the peach, plum and cherry trees should never be severely headed back. The self-topping characteristic helps keep the trees in their typical shape regardless of the age of the tree.